About Punjabi Jutti
Best thing about Punjabi jutti is that it can never be assembled/stitched by any machine; that’s the reason this is a very special art. This is the work of the great artisans who work day and night to craft these exclusive masterpieces that are demanded not only in India but abroad as well. These are picked by the people for the intricate artwork and the ethnic look they give to the wearer. These artisans have helped to keep our tradition and culture alive through their unique artistry.
The Beginning of the Jutti-Making Process
The process of making this most desirable Punjabi jutti starts from a tannery where raw pelts are processed using the vegetable tanning method. For this, a substance called tanning, which is extracted from the bark of Babool or Kikkar trees, is used. It is in the tannery that an animal pelt becomes strong, flexible, water-resistant and consequently, wearable.
Coloring the Leather
For coloring, Saronfulla (yellow) and Arsi Gulabi (green) powdered pigments are mixed in water to make a thin solution of different shades of red and applied to the pieces of leather using a local shaving brush.
Cutting the Components
This processed leather is then cut into the components of the Punjabi jutti. They make the sole of Punjabi jutti, known as ‘Talla’, by thick leather in dual. They use sponge in between Talla to make it puffy and comfortable.
Making the Upper (Panja or Panna)
The Punjabi jutti’s upper, known as Panna or Panja — the claw “Panja” of Punjabi jutti — is prepared separately. The claw “Panja” of Punjabi jutti is prepared dual. The upper part of the claw is prepared with thick leather or a robust fabric, and the inner part with thin and soft leather only. A woman or man artisan does embroidery with golden or silver Zari, colorful threads, beads, etc. on the upper part of the Punjabi jutti. Embroidery may be by machine also.
Making the Backside (Addi or Adda)
The backside “Addi or Adda” of Punjabi jutti is also prepared dual, which is outside thick leather or a robust fabric and inner part thin and soft leather only. A woman or man artisan does embroidery with golden or silver Zari, colorful threads, beads, etc. on the backside of Punjabi jutti. Embroidery may be by machine also.
Assembling and Final Shaping
An artisan stitches/assembles all these three parts of the Punjabi jutti with each other by cotton yarn that is not only eco-friendly but also enmeshes the leather fibers with great strength. Artisans give final shape to Punjabi jutti by a wooden mould after stitching, and the jutti gets a very attractive shape. By this method, the whole jutti is prepared by hands. So, creation of Punjabi jutti is an art.
Role of Men and Women Artisans
While men handle the cutting, shaping, and assembling of the shoe, the women work beautiful embroideries on the top, back, and sometimes even instep of the jutti. Embroidering the juttis involves the use of stencils for cutting and tracing designs onto the leather parts of the shoes. They range from simple cut-out shapes to be filled with simple embroidery, to intricate punches, weaves, and embroidered designs.
Handicrafts in the Modern Era
In the modern age, which goods are called handicrafts, these handmade goods were actually daily needs of the ancient people in the ancient age. And India was a hub of handicrafts in the ancient age. But in the modern machine era, goods of daily use began to be prepared in less time and at lower cost. In result, purchase of handmade goods began to be reduced. And names of thousands of handmade goods were deleted by machines. But Punjabi jutti is not a product only like any other product, but rather it is a unique artistry. And Punjabi jutti is one safe unique art from those thousands of arts which are vanished and being vanished.
Stylish and Comfortable
In today’s time, style and comfort go hand in hand, as women want their footwear to be great in both fronts. Punjabi juttis are exclusively created and are high on comfort as well, which makes them so popular. These are available not only in various forms but the intricate designing and embroidery done on these is completely unique as well. Since all traditional juttis are handmade, it makes them all the more special.
Dress Up with Punjabi Jutti
Punjabi juttis can be teamed with both formal and semi-formal dresses. In a wedding, the bridegroom mostly wears juttis and this gives a vintage look to the attire. Girls wear them with formal salwar kameezes, sarees, and even with jeans, short tops, kurtis, etc. Apart from giving a perfect finish to the feet, juttis are also lightweight, comfortable, and easy to carry.
History of Punjabi Jutti
History of Punjabi Jutti
In Indian history, the Punjabi jutti has symbolized the lifestyle and culture of the people.
In ancient times, members of royal families—such as kings, queens, nawabs, choudharies, landlords, and aristocrats—used to wear Punjabi juttis.
This beautifully crafted and colorful footwear gained special prominence during the Mughal era, when Mughal royalty and courtiers began wearing exceptionally embellished and well-designed Punjabi juttis. The Salem Shahi Juttis are named after the Mughal prince Salim (Jahangir).
Highly skilled artisans crafted these juttis from soft, high-quality leather, keeping in mind both the comfort and elegance expected for royal feet.
To enhance their visual appeal, Punjabi juttis were adorned with intricate phulkari embroidery using real gold and silver threads (zari), along with vibrant colored threads.
Due to their superior craftsmanship and materials, these juttis were considered luxurious and highly valuable.
Punjabi Jutti Among Common People
Punjabi juttis were not limited to royalty; common people also wore them. Initially, the juttis worn by the general public were made from basic materials and simple designs, which sometimes caused discomfort.
However, Indians—especially those in North India—have always been fashion-conscious and passionate about style. They never hesitate to spend on quality and design.
As a result, even ordinary people began purchasing royal-style Punjabi juttis, driven by their love for tradition and elegance.
Decline in Quality and Popularity
With time, to reduce production costs, the royal-style Punjabi jutti began to be made with ordinary and cheaper materials.
This shift led to a decline in both the quality and comfort of the juttis, causing them to lose the regal essence they once held.
Consequently, their popularity began to fade.
Although Punjabi juttis are still available today in attractive designs, many of them no longer meet the high standards of craftsmanship and quality they were once known for.
Punjabi Jutti in Modern Fashion
Despite this decline, the Punjabi jutti continues to hold a significant place in Indian fashion.
This traditional footwear is suitable for all occasions. Both men and women wear simple or embroidered Punjabi juttis during festivals, weddings, and even as part of daily attire.
The type of design and embellishment on these juttis varies based on the occasion. For example:
Weddings: Heavily embellished juttis adorned with pearls, stones, and metal studs are immensely popular.
Everyday Wear: Working women and college girls often prefer simple juttis with threadwork, which offer both comfort and elegance.
The Punjabi jutti remains a timeless blend of tradition, style, and cultural pride.